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By William Van Zyl (Published in November 2023)
In this article, I provide a rich resource for artists, designers, teachers and design students. I include a short clothing and fashion design overview over the past 700 years of Māori in New Zealand. I start with traditional clothing and then progress to AI-inspired clothing—a modern and contemporary approach. See the AI images generated by Midjourney/Discord. Extravagant Māori shapes, forms, patterns and colours are included. The images will provide excellent prompts for designers.
Specifically, the resource will provide a great background and new foreground for Māori-inspired designs. Considering the new NCEA Level 1 Technology Curriculum for New Zealand (launched in 2024), this resource will provide a succinct overview with pointers to the future of fabric and fashion design.
IMAGE: TWO PEOPLE ON THE LEFT: In this old drawing from around 1847 by George French Angas, there are two young men named Poahu and E Koti. Poahu uses flax to tie two complete hawk wings to his head, and he’s wearing a cloak called Korowai with black fringes at the neck. He also has a blue shirt on, showing the influence of European clothing. E Koti, his friend, has hawk feathers in his hair, along with red ochre and shark oil. He’s wearing a Korowai, too, and his cloak has colourful stripes on the front. E Koti’s ear pendant is a medal from the Jesuit mission, showing the impact of missionaries. PEOPLE ON THE RIGHT: On the right side of the drawing are the children of a chief named Te Pakaru from Kāwhia. The girls are wearing kaitaka with fancy embroidered borders, and the boy has a rain cape made of flax leaves. George French Angas mentioned that this kind of cape is usually worn in wet weather or when the natives are working in their plantations. Credit image: https://teara.govt.nz/en/artwork/41011/hawk-wing-headdress-around-1847
IMAGE: Typical female and male Māori clothing, objects, adornments, and accessories. Credit image: https://www.creativeclassrooms.co.nz/traditional-clothing-chart.html
IMAGE: These colourful yet somewhat naïve representations, one of the notable Ngāpuhi rangatira Hōne Wiremu Heke Pōkai, his wife Hariata, and accompanying entourage, and the other of a group of unidentified Māori women are placed under the theme of taonga, despite their equally important relationship to other themes in this exhibition, including Mana-a-iwi. Heke’s mana is conveyed primarily through the taongas he and his entourage wear. The highly ornate kaitaka cloak with its exquisite tāniko borders is one example, as is the feathered adze he is holding and the huia feather adorning his head. The hieke rain cape and taiaha borne by the figure immediately behind Heke, most likely the elder rangatira Kawiti, are also highly valued taonga.
Credit image:https://fletchercollection.org.nz/artworks/four-Māori -girls-and-a-young-Māori -man/
Māori tattoos as part of Māori fashion for men and women: The Māori are renowned for their striking tattoos, known as ta moko. Tattooing has always held significant cultural importance among the Māori people. Early Māori settlers in New Zealand brought this practice from their Polynesian homelands, using tattoos to symbolise status and rank. In early Māori society, nearly everyone had tattoos, with the type and number reflecting their social standing, which evolved with their achievements. Even slaves were marked with tattoos, and many rose to higher positions in society, sometimes becoming masters themselves. Māori tattoos were also utilised for attracting romantic partners. Getting tattoos was a crucial part of reaching maturity, accompanied by various rites and rituals. Until the early 1900s, the Māori employed bone chisels with exceptionally sharp edges for tattooing, involving a lengthy and painful process of carving deep grooves into the skin. Despite marking various parts of their bodies, Māori women typically had their lips and chin adorned with tattoos.
IMAGE: Māori fashion: Over the years, Māori clothing has seen various changes. The arrival of missionaries played a crucial role in altering traditional women’s attire, primarily to enhance modesty and decorum. The most notable change was the introduction of the pari (bodices) for women. About a century ago, subtle modifications began to take place.
Around the time of Captain Cook’s arrival in 1769, women wore a maro, a triangular garment resembling an apron. By the late 19th century, the maro transformed into a kilt- or rapaki-like garment, akin to the modern piupiu, featuring a cloak-like woven inner lining. Over time, this inner panel evolved into a simple waistband, and a lighter cotton fabric underskirt, called a panekoti (derived from the English word “petticoat”), emerged.
Since then, women’s garments have remained relatively consistent. In contemporary times, the underskirt is typically red or black, attached to either the pari or piupiu in women’s attire. It should match the length of the piupiu, although there is a trend towards longer underskirts with printed designs visible below the piupiu’s bottom. During ceremonial events and cultural presentations, the piupiu may even be worn like a cloak, draped over regular street clothes, usually black dresses for women. Credit: http://www.hinemihi.co.uk/page.php?id=19&page=36
IMAGE: Māori traditional attire predominantly utilised materials sourced from nature, including vegetation, animal hides, and natural fibres. Feathers, wood, and stone also played a crucial role in adorning individuals of different social standings on various occasions. In specific regions, long, slender strips of inner bark were fashioned into flexible skirts or capes, such as the piupiu, a type of grass skirt.
The piupiu typically features a plaited or tāniko-made waistband, while the body is crafted from meticulously prepared flax leaves. The muka or flax fibre is exposed in certain sections, creating geometric patterns. Unscraped leaves naturally curl into tubes as they dry, producing a percussion sound when the wearer sways or moves. Dyeing can be employed to accentuate the geometric patterns, as the dye permeates more into the exposed fibres than the dried raw leaf. While the traditional method involved using mud for dyeing, contemporary piupiu production incorporates dyes to enhance longevity.
Table of Contents
Fashion Keywords:
korowai (cloak), piupiu ( flax skirt), pari (bodices/bra or brazier), panekoti (under skirt), tātua- (male waist band), pūreke ( shoulder cape), maro (male short kilt)
AI-inspired images (Midjourney/Discord):
Prompt: Māori-inspired contemporary fashion for male and female. Focus on the traditional shape, form pattern, and colours of Māori art and culture.
See below – the contemporary fashion created via Midjourney/Discord for males and females. Contains the typical Maori motifs, patterns, forms, shapes and colours in a modern context.
The clothing of the Māori people, the indigenous Polynesian people of New Zealand, has evolved over the past 700 years, influenced by cultural, environmental, and social factors.
Here’s a brief overview with a timeline of developments, focusing on practicality, art, and style:
14th-15th Century: Pre-European Contact
- Materials: Māori clothing was primarily made from natural materials such as flax (harakeke), dog skin, and feathers.
- Styles: Basic garments included maro (loincloths), piupiu (flax skirts), and kakahu (cloaks).
- Decoration: Weaving and intricate patterns were used for decoration, showcasing artistic expression.
17th-18th Century: Introduction of European Influences
- Materials: European fabrics like muslin and wool were introduced through contact with European explorers and traders.
- Styles: Traditional garments continued, but European influence changed garment styles, incorporating new elements.
- Decoration: European tools and techniques influenced weaving and carving, leading to more complex and detailed designs.
19th Century: Increased European Contact
- Materials: European textiles became more prevalent, and traditional materials persisted.
- Styles: Adopting European-style shirts, jackets, and dresses alongside traditional garments became more common.
- Decoration: Intricate carving and weaving techniques continued, with patterns often holding cultural significance.
Late 19th Century: Victorian Influence
- Styles: Victorian fashion trends, such as high-necked dresses and tailored suits, influenced Māori clothing styles.
- Decoration: Elaborate lacework and embroidery were incorporated into garments.
Early 20th Century: Assimilation Period
- Materials: Continued use of European fabrics; traditional materials gradually declined.
- Styles: Western-style clothing became more prevalent, reflecting efforts to assimilate into European culture.
- Decoration: Traditional weaving and carving persisted but with reduced prominence.
Mid-20th Century: Cultural Renaissance
- Materials: A resurgence of interest in traditional materials, such as flax and feathers.
- Styles: Revival of traditional Māori garments, including piupiu and korowai (cloak).
- Decoration: A renewed focus on intricate patterns and carving, emphasising cultural identity.
Late 20th Century to Present: Cultural Pride and Contemporary Influence
- Materials: A mix of traditional and contemporary fabrics; increased use of modern materials.
- Styles: Traditional garments remain significant, often worn alongside modern clothing, blending Māori and Western styles.
- Decoration: Strong emphasis on preserving and promoting traditional artistic techniques; contemporary designs also incorporate Māori motifs.
IMAGE: Contemporary clothing for sale – Maori motifs. Swaddle and beanie for a baby (pēpi).
Swaddle & Beanie details (baby in the image):
- New Māori design beanies and swaddles for all ethnicities.
- Pēpi products that look great.
- Featuring the unique ‘Manaaki’ design. Manaaki is made up of two words: mana (prestige, authority, control, power, influence, status, spiritual power, charisma), which means strength, and aki, which means to encourage. It’s about recognising that things have mana, and when you express manaakitanga (expressing kindness and respect for others, emphasising responsibility and reciprocity) to someone or something, that in itself is an encouragement.
- Cotton/elastane blend.
- Machine washable.
- Super soft and warm.
- Newborn – 6 months
Credit: https://emeredesigns.co.nz/products/pepi-beanie
Conclusion:
Today, Māori clothing reflects a blend of tradition, cultural pride, and contemporary influences, with a wide range of styles encompassing practicality and artistic expression.
Citation:
Van Zyl, W. N. (2023). AI-Inspired Māori Fashion. Published to Five House Publishing (article).
Interested in more Māori resources on architecture, food, fashion, furniture, tools, worldview, AI, and more?
Search the blog posts: ‘Māori‘
Here are some examples of the many articles and resources available: Māori context (metalwork, woodwork, furniture, food, tools, worldview, placenta, AI, Modernist architecture [Le Corbusier – Villla Savoye and others], and much more).
Copyright © 2023 by William Van Zyl
AI-Inspired Māori Fashion.
All rights reserved. This eBook/article or any portion
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without the publisher’s permission, except for using brief quotations in a book review.
Published by Five House Publishing (New Zealand)
First Publishing, November 2023
More eBooks and articles are available at https://fivehousepublishing.com/
More about the author at http://williamvanzyl.com/
